Practicing my partners hair design.

 Hayley's hair design consisted of a bun which should be chic from the back of the head, and textured and well not so chic from the front.
Hayley wanted ribbon on the bun in a cross. I found third rather easy to create yet hard to make the cross of ribbon even. As you can see its really wonky! This is a problem I y face on the assessment but will continuing practicing. I created the cross by pinning one end of the ribbon under the top of the bun, placing the ribbon to the bottom of the bun and cutting the ribbon then pinning it under the bun

 Hayley wanted the front of her hair to be quite big and textured but not too big. She also wanted the hair to replicate a heart shape like how the Elizabethan women wore their hair. I did this by crimping the hair back combing the section that was going to create the shape and simply pulled back.

The parting is also a center parting which was also on trend for that era. It is a concern of mine that the hair will not hold in that shape with no hair padding, as her hair is soo fine. I will back comb the hair as much as possible and spray the hair will and hope for the best.

The crimped part of her hair has been pulled back,puffed up and pinned into two flat pin curls. To help secure the shape yet has reference to the Elizabethan era.

The pinned curls look a tad messy I will make them neater was just simply experimenting. I will also hide the hair pins.











Overall I am confident I can create her design within the time scale. As practicing it took me 45 minutes.

Hayleys assessment.

For our assessment our partner had to create our hair design that we designed for ourselves. They had to create from our information pack that we provided. As well as practical sessions and hair charts.

Hayley practiced my hair three times, which was enough time to perfect the design. I had to show Hayley how to create my design as I found it hard to explain. I showed her how to make the hair shapes by simply wrapping the hair round your fingers to create a sort of wave/bump then pinning the bumps from underneath the hair so you could not see the pins.. Hayley looked very professional creating my design. She took into consideration hygiene using hand gel and clean brushes.
Whilst asked to analyse Hayley I think she did a good job of my hair and the hair looked as I wanted, it had shape, texture, and colour which were the three main points I wanted to cover and communicate through my design as well as it being historically correct with a modern twist.

However I would've liked the style to of been a bit bigger but my hair was so floppy due to washing it the night before. Hayley followed my instructions well, and created my hair design within good time.

 She created the shape I wanted. The correct texture, and color using the spray to represent my interpretation of a new Elizabethan.

If I was to do this design on myself I would of been more tough with my hair as I got the impression that my partner was too scared that she was going to hurt me. I probably would of used the red spray more generously so it had more of an effect in for the image.

I would of liked the hair to of been a bit bigger at the front but my hair was too silky to hold so well and kept on separating at the front. However I was pleased with the outcome.

My information pack.

Below is my information pack I provided for Hayley. It entailed of step by step instructions and images. I also supplied hair charts. We had plenty of practise and I demonstrated how to achieve the look.

Creating my final hair design.

This week I have been working extremely hard to try and complete my design. I had my texture and idea of the shape but was not quite there and felt lost at how to finalise my design.

Playing with shape.

I played around with the shape. I tried using a small banana clip this did not work on my head. I tried a long banana clip. This would not hold the thickness and length of my hair. I think these would look amazing with thinner hair.


I knew I wanted to create a mohawk type of style. I watched youtube tutorials  to get an idea. I noticed that they were using ponytails but just one which created a mohawk effect on top but not all the way down the head. So I used three ponytails starting at the top of the head and finishing at the back of the head. Started playing with shape and finally I decided on a shape.

 I tightly sectioned the front section of the hair into a ponytail. I then repeated this for the section of hair behind the ears, and at the back of the head. Making sure there were no loose bits of hair, and lumps.

Then crimped the hair for the texture.

I then backcombed the hair using the 203 comb and the Denman brush.To add extra frizzy texture it also helps shape the hair and hole the shape.

The hair was then twisted and rolled into a bun sort of shape. The hair was tucked under and pinned with geisha pins and curvy grips. Then backcombed the hair.

This created the look and shape desired which I was finally pleased with. I will spray the mohawk bit red to reference back to Elizabeth, as well as the big shape and texture.

Hair colour inspiration.

I am sat down watching television, then an advertisement appears on my screen. All I can hear is an annoying screech from an opera singer. I look to the television and I see a mountain of apples on the screen and a beautiful long haired model climbing this mountain to get to the bottle of perfume which is the only one hanging on the tree. Conveying the message it's `the ripest apple` the best perfume. The bottle is red and  round, almost duplicating an apple.





Then I thought Elizabethans valued red hair but not actual red hair its ginger hair which has an orange tone to it."red hair was popular during the reign of red-head Elizabeth I of England"(Victoria Sherrow,Hair colour,For Appearance' Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming,March 30, 2001,Greenwood.) I began thinking that this could not only reference Elizabethan era but I could use this to add my own twist!

I then began thinking of ways of which I could apply red into my design.

• Dying my hair red semi-permanently.

Although my hair is already fairly red I did not want to dye it any redder as I am trying to grow it out, although it is only semi-permanent I did not want to risk it.

• Apply it through adornment like ribbon.

I did not like this idea as we plaiting with ribbon during seminars and I felt that it looked quite neat, and being a messy person, and being inspired by a wild hair design, I felt this would not suit my idea.

• Red pieces of hair.

I bought red strands of hair as I felt I could interpret them into the hair by plaiting them going upwards into my hair design and attaching them using pins, hiding the pins within the mohican sort of hair style.

• Red hair spray.

This I feel would be easier than my other ideas. considering I wanted to incorporate hair colour other than my own into my design this would be the possible easiest and most effective way to do so. Also the perfume bottle not only inspired the colour but also how the colour could be applied by spray! That way you can control like perfume where the colour goes and how much you want on. As it could look too much or not enough again like perfume.

power point presentation.

 On my first slide of my powerpoint I had images of the portraits and some quotes from Elizabethan literature that described the hair that inspired the texture and colour.










On my second slide I compared original Elizabethan hair to contemporary hair style. Saying how even our day to day hair styles have been inspired by that era. I also wanted to say how the big voluminous hair styles stood out for me the most, as well as the frizzy textures.

Here I spoke about my three final collages and explained what each one was and how I could've created it.

 On my fourth slide I showed some images of experiments I said what worked and what did not. I found that my design ideas and what I actually did, did not link up therefore I will develop my design further this week.









On my final slide I showed my final design which Seema helped me choose. I said why I thought she chose it and why I think I think I should use it. I also wrote how I will communicate my idea to my partner and all of the products and equipment needed to create the design.

Here is my feedback I received. I think I need to make a few last changes to my design as I feel I am not fully finished. I agree with Seemas comments and will work on sculpting the hair to complete my look.

Experimenting with texture,colour and shape.

After choosing my final hair design I decided to create the design upon a head.

I began to develop my design by considering the texture after reading  (The Anatonie of Abuses. Published 1583, Author Philip Stubbes.) He described the hair as being "curled,frizzled, and crisped". I wanted to somehow convey a historically correct texture. How more accurate can you get than Elizabethan literature? 

Curled.
I stupidly left my curling tongs at home, so I turned to my beloved heated rollers which create a thicker curl. 



I  began by putting the hair up into a high ponytail. I then applied a rounded banana clip to the ponytail on top of the head (placing it in the center). This made the hair stand in place. I then took the hair band out and curled the hair with heated rollers.

Much to my surprise the hair did not curl as much as I would have liked! So I decided to use the pin curling technique except not flat on the head standing up so you can see the pin curls hole. As you can see this looks rather ridiculous. I will not be developing this look ever!

Crisped & frizzed.

I then tried out creating a frizzed effect. Using the intriguing technique that Seema taught us. Using just a geisha pin and straighteners! I wrapped the hair around about 18 geisha pins popped a curvy grip in them to hold it in place. After they had been held in that position long enough I pressed the straightners onto the hair. Took the pin out creating a zig zag effect to the hair. This texture was not frizzed o I got out my tail comb and backcombed the dolly's head brutally. It created a frizzy effect. But I had not taken into consideration the time it took me; or the fact that my hair is way longer,thicker, and I have a million more strands.






Although from the profile image you can see that although the texture might not be ideal the mohican shape is there. Although this looks a little too out of hand and has much more development to come.

Colour.

As inspired by Nini Ricci fragrance Nina L'Elixir and of course Queen Elizabeth I; the chosen colour I want to communicate my idea is red. I thought of many ways I could incorporate the colour. The two ideas I have chosen to possibly use id the red strands of hair and the red spray.

Red strands of hair.

I plaited these strands of hair, and as the hair was synthetic I burnt the ends to melt them so the plait would stay a plait. I hid the strands under the mohican. The strands going upwards. To me this did not look right or complete. Therefore I feel it is best I do not use them. Also the strands were too long which meant I would have had to cut them which could ruin the plait.

Red hair spray.

This looked much more natural and was simple, and not time consuming to apply. When it dries it also creates this dry,damaged hair effect like I'd imagine the word crisped to be like.

Shape.

I knew I wanted a mohican shape so I purchased a banana clip. The clip was suitable for the doll. However I needed a longer one due to my length and amount of hair. What the clip will do is hold the hair in place in a mohican shape so I can create shapes upon the hair.

Trying hair design number 3.

I have trialed a look I created from the Dolce And Gabbana advert.

 Here I french plaited the front section of the hair to the back of the head. Like I drew on the image. I think if I was to do further this design I would buy colored extensions to plait or add ribbon in the hair or even plait the ribbon.

I then rolled and twisted the hair into a low bun.

I twisted the other side of the hair into the bun and created two waves using the technique I learnt in class the other day using two strands of hair, I feel this may look better curled.

Here I added some `jewls` as I did in my image. I added them into the plait to possibly make the hair look more 

Elizabethan.

Some factors I did not think of was the preciseness as the hair looks very messy and I didn't think of placing the parting straight! Some issues that may be faced is my hair is very long therefore the design may need some altering like I could wrap the plait around the bun like a band. i am not sure if I like the twist or the front bits. I think I may re-do this style by curling all of the except the plaited part re-create the updo and have some strands hanging on both sides of the face and will incorporate different colours and textures. I think I will also back comb the hair to give it more lift.

Looking at this I have realised I went completely off target as the final outcome looks nothing like my image or how I described my intended design. 

Studio time crimping the hair.

Crimping the hair.

Equipment.

·         Cape.

·         Consultation form.

·         Heat protector.

·         Hair rat.

·         Curvy grips.

·         Geisha pins.

·         Heated crimpers.

·         Hairspray.

Firstly place the cape around your models shoulders. Fill in a consultation form to make sure they are not allergic to any products.

Brush through the hair with a paddle brush ensuring there are no knots.

Apply heat protector to their hair. Then section the hair using sectioning clips.

Then crimp the hair starting from the back of the hair making your way towards the front sections of hair.

Then place the rat on top of the head pinning it down with curvy grips securing it in pace.

Place the crimped hair over the rat and tuck the hair under securing with geisha and curvy grips.

For extra hold spray with hair spray.

Studio time padding.

Creating a shape in the hair.

We created a volumized shape using what the Elizabethans called a Rat. You can create your own using tights and wodding or cotton wool. You simply cut the tight to your desired size and stuff it with your filling you can make it as big or small as you please.

Equipment.

·         Paddle brush.

·         Cape.

·         Consultation form.

·         Hair tongs.

·         Hair sectioning clips.

·         Hair rat.

·         Heat protector.

Place a cape around your model. Start filling in a consultation form to ensure that they do not have any scalp conditions.

Brush through the hair to make sure there are no knots with a paddle brush.

Firstly create a middle parting by brushing back the front of the hair to recreate a parting using a paddle brush. This also help the hair sit in a heart shape once styled.

Then section the hair from the ear line using hair sectioning clips pulling the front half of the hair forward and clipping the rest back to style.

 Apply heat protector. Then pin curl the whole head of hair using tongs.

Then taking a piece of hair from the front section creates a small plait and pin it onto the head this will help secure the rat.

Once the hair is pin curled position a hair `rat` upon the head, this creates a big shape and amount of volume in the hair like the Elizabethans had.

Once you are happy with where the rat is position wrap the front sections of the hair on top of the rat tucking underneath and tightly pinning the hair into place to secure the style.

You can then create a bun or plait with the rest of the hair to complete the look, or pin it all up under the rat.

You can also create an Elizabethan frizzy texture to this look by simply crimping the hair instead of curling this gives the hair that frizzy, crispy sort of look. You can make the hair frizzier by backcombing, and brushing the crimped hair.

My three final designs.

Final design one.

(Seema I did rotate my hair charts but they would not change once I put them on here)
I have decided to change one of my images as I feel I can not do much more with it style wise!
I have changed it to a advertisement from vogue's November issue for Bogetta Veneta. The design hair colour was influenced by how french women coloured their hair in the Elizabethan era blonde. "Bleaches were also used by french women to lighten their hair to a fashionable saffron yellow".(The artificial face Fenja Gunn pg66) I found this intriguing as it shows that not all countries were influenced by Elizabeths hair colour to an extent but its still lighter and more towards a golden tint.

On this image I have painted a a bun with a curled frizzy effect like Elizabeths. The bun looks as if its got a sponge or hair piece under it. I have painted on pin curls on the hair line. Which a lot of Elizabethans did.

Final design two.

Out of all of my designs I find this one to be the most eye catching due to the craziness and shape of the hair. If I was to create this design I would not put all of those colours in the hair I would jut take certain elements like the shape, and the texture, possibly the adornment.

Final design three.

My third image was also an advertisement from Vogue's November issue. Dolce&Gabbana. I liked the hair to begin with as it already has some Elizabethan traits such as the up do and curls in the hair although the curls are loose it could be a contemporary image.

To make this look Elizabethan to me I have added a braid of which is purple, which I could create using a ribbon or false hair. I also added jewels to make the hair style look more delicate. I would make the parting a middle parting and add volume on top of the hair like the padding but a more contemporary version so the hairs got a fair bit of volume but not too much.

Studio time pin curling hair.

Pin curls.

Equipment.

·         Cape.

·         Sectioning comb.

·         Paddle brush.

·         Consultation form.

·         Sectioning clips.

·         Curvy grips.

·         Hair tongs.

·         Heat protection.

·         Hair spray.

Place the cape on your model and fill in your consultation form again making sure there are no scalp conditions. Also checking the condition of their hair which will determine what heat you can have your tongs on without damaging their hair.

Brush through their hair thoroughly making sure there are no hair knots.

Then section the hair using the metal end of your comb. Section the hair into four square sections. One at the front of the hair. Behind the ears, at the back of the head and the bottom of the head. Once these are sectioned hold them into place using sectioning clips.

Whilst waiting for the tongs to heat up spray your models hair with heat protector.

You should start from the bottom of the hair working your way up, this is to ensure you do not ruin the shape you have just created, and creates a cleaner look.

Wrap the end of the hair around the tong if it’s long.

Turn the tong on its side moving in, making sure the tong gets as close to the root as possible. To do this safely you can use your comb at the root of the hair protecting the head from painful heat, this will also make your model feel more at ease.

Hold in position for about 12 seconds, this is enough time to ensure you get the tightest curl possible.

To release the curl pull the tong back releasing the trigger and slowly releasing the hair.

You then pin the curl in place with a hair grip until you have released a full head of curls.

To create a flat pin curl you wrap the piece of hair around your fingers to make a hole in the middle of the hair. 
Then lay the hair flat against the head then apply a curvy grip to hold the shape into place. Make sure you hide the grip well.

You can then apply hairspray for extra hold at the end if desired.

Evaluation.

Creating pin curls was not too hard I could create the flat pin curls and the pin curls easily. However I need to ensure I curl all of the sections of hair as close to the root as possible. The curls begin to droop and not have such an impact as the ones that are. I also believe I need to work on my technique and take more care as I tend to make my hairstyles look rather messy. But I think this will come with time and practice.

`Frizzing the hair`

Here's a technique that can be used to create a Elizabethan style frizz that they all insanely envied.

• Using a wide grip pull a section of hair through the slide so the slide is facing upwards. Weave the hair in ad out of the slide using a figure 8 motion. Once the strand of hair is completely wrapped around the slide place a curvy grip into it and let it set for a few minutes. 
• Once you have left the hair press hair straighteners onto the `plaited` looking hair strand.
• Once the hair and metal has cooled down remove both pins.
• This should leave the hair looking like a noodle.
• You can then tease the hair or do as you please to it to create your desired look.

I really liked this technique as its easy and effective. I may consider using this technique to go towards my future look, however I may buy some extensions to create this look as it is extremely time consuming!